WHICH OVERLAND VEHICLE?
Perhaps the easiest answer to that is what it is not. Overlanding is not trail driving or primarily rock crawling, wheeling, bashing or whatever else. Overlanding for me means visiting unique and remote places, mostly nature, in a responsible and careful way – on the way you might get some difficult obstacles to cross. Overlanding also means that you mostly camp and carry all your food with you.
So what vehicle do I need to do overlanding?
Let me start by saying, to do proper overlanding I do not think softroaders are ideal. In many cases they might be able to do a trip but they are not built for heavy duty driving. Their carrying capacity is not enough, their tyres not suitable and in most cases they are just not sturdy enough. Besides that, they do not have good enough 4×4 systems to tackle more serious obstacles or deep sand. So everything discussed from here assumes a proper 4×4 vehicle with low range gearing and good load ratings.
So here are some pointers to consider:
How remote do you want to go:
- If more than 8 hours from any help – your car must be very reliable and mechanically cared for. Under these conditions the roads are generally very difficult for any recovery vehicle so you will not easily get help. If you do not have a satellite phone chances are good that you won’t be able to phone anyone.
- I personally prefer an older vehicle as many problems can be addressed if you have some technical knowledge – newer cars have a lot more electronics, even gear selection, driving modes etc and there is no easy way to diagnose and fix these in remote places.
Would you mind some scratches and dings on your vehicle?
- Many people want to get to some places but do not want any damage to their vehicles. Even going to remote places does not mean you have to get some damage, with proper care this can be avoided.
- Generally overlanding is not to do bundu-bashing, heavy trails etc.
Are you camping, glamping or making use of other accommodation?
- If you want to camp then you need to decide where your accommodation will be carried, on the roof, inside or in a trailer.
- If on top, then the vehicle must be able to have a roof rack or strong load bars, depending on the tent. Most proper 4×4 vehicles can accommodate this.
Diesel or petrol?
- Petrol vehicles in this class are generally heavier on fuel, so you have to carry more fuel on long trips.
- Petrol is much more flammable than diesel, so diesel is safer when carrying extra fuel in cans and during the top-up process.
- Diesel engines are more complex than petrol engines and more difficult to diagnose.
- Diesel vehicles are generally more expensive than their petrol counterparts.
- Diesel engines have more torque (nm) at low revs which makes it nicer to drive in slow going situations.
How sensitive are you about fuel consumption?
- Remember that with all the food, camping gear and people on board the car is heavy. Stuff on the roof rack also affects air flow and adds resistance. So all in all, fuel consumption can be as much as 30% higher than normal.
- Be careful for small engine capacity vehicles, they tend to be economical until loaded and with wind resistance or sand – consumption shoots up exponentially.
Do you have basic technical knowledge and experience with cars, mechanical and electrical?
- If you don’t have any knowledge then stay clear of older vehicles. Rather look at a modern vehicle that is well maintained, preferably with a maintenance plan and off road recovery insurance.
What is your budget?
- This is obviously a big factor in your choice of vehicle.
- I would suggest the following:
- Budget less than R150K: Very tricky, you will have to shop around to find a good vehicle. An old Japanese bakkie or SUV is probably the safest option, just make sure you can still find parts and that after market accessories like suspension components are still available.
- Budget between R150K and R250K: You will find older generation single or double cab bakkies, make sure they are in good mechanical condition. This is probably the best option. Do not be tempted to buy an old luxury SUV in this price range, it can be a can of worms unless you know them very well.
- Budget between R250K and R500K: There are lots of options here, bakkies and SUVs – even new ones. When buying it is safer to buy main-stream products as they are widely used and supported.
- Budget above R500K: Anything you like, taking into account everything mentioned in this article.
Are you or someone in your car physically able to replace wheels, lift stuff on and off a roof rack etc?
- This is really something to think about before you venture off into the wild.
- If you cannot get things on and off a roof rack you are definitely a candidate for an off road trailer or caravan.
Are you comfortable with very bad roads and tracks, or not?
- Many people want to get to some places but do not enjoy very bad and difficult roads. This then also implies that they won’t be traveling to very remote and extreme places – hence any vehicle would be sufficient, old or new. I would say, get a modern vehicle for more comfort.
Are you experienced in 4×4 driving?
- I guess the answer is – you can always learn.
- Very experienced 4×4 guys I know lean towards older vehicles without any electronic driving aids, relying on proper wheel articulation and axle lockers. Having said that, the newer electronic systems are in fact very good.
How many people are in the car?
- Now this is a really important factor as it will have a big influence on your choice of vehicle.
- For 2 people you can choose any car, from a single cab bakkie to a station wagon.
- For 4 people things can get a bit tight, especially for longer trips. I personally don’t think it is practical unless you tow a trailer. There is just too much stuff – I battle to get all our stuff in the car for just 2 people.
If camping, do you prefer ground tents, rooftop tents, caravans or trailers?
- Ground tents – ensure you have adequate packing space inside but generally on the roof rack works better.
- Rooftop tents – not all of which are equal. They vary in price and functionality – have a look around. Some hard shell tents will take up your entire roof rack, others just half of it. Once again it is up to your requirements.
- Check the weight of the tent or tents on the roof – most vehicles have a maximum weight of between 100 and 150 kg’s. Many people exceed this!
- So your choice of vehicle is definitely influenced by your choice of tent, or even more than one tent. The problem with single cab and double cab bakkies is that you cannot have a single roof rack over the full length because of the flex between the cab and the load bin. This is just something to consider before you buy.
Manual or automatic?
- For very remote overlanding my preference of vehicle here would be manual and not automatic, merely because manual vehicles can be towed by another traveler whereas automatic vehicles can be a problem and have to be handled with care.
- A manual vehicle with a broken gearbox can generally still be driven in certain gears so you can still limp on.
- A manual vehicle can also be driven with a dysfunctional clutch, not easy but it can be done.
- Some automatic gearboxes tend to overheat in long and difficult off road driving conditions.
- Having said that, if you are willing to take some risk, automatic vehicles are awesome to drive and handle 4×4 situations very well.
Do you like older cars or do you prefer the latest technology?
- Older cars are cheaper, although they need more maintenance.
- For an older car, remember to put aside some funds to fix some initial problems and to get it to a good standard. Budget for as much as 40% of the purchase value for this.
- Older cars are simpler to maintain and even fix in the bush.
- Some older cars have lots of character and provide a unique driving experience.
- Modern cars are expensive.
- Modern cars have lots of electronics which make them almost impossible to repair in the bush.
- Modern cars come with a warranty and service plan.
- Modern cars are very comfortable.
Will the car be used only for overlanding or also for general use?
- This is a very important point to consider. I would say the following – if you can, then a dedicated overland vehicle is the best option. It is just easier to kit it out, install a packing system, water tanks etc and keep it packed with your camping gear.
- As a dedicated vehicle you can potentially look at an older vehicle which will be more cost effective.
- If you want it for general use as well you have to make some compromises in terms of kitting. Stuff will have to be removable and can cost more.
So just from these it is clear that choice of vehicle is not a simple matter and that there is no one-for-all vehicle out there, it also comes down to personal choice.
What I can say, from my experience, is this – the best vehicle is the one you know the best. It is much better traveling into the unknown with the knowledge that you would be able to troubleshoot and potentially fix any problems along the way. I also prefer to take an older vehicle and make it reliable at every level.
However, for those non-techies, there is nothing wrong choosing a vehicle and having some backup plan such as remote recovery services, mechanic-on-standby etc. Don’t let the fear of a breakdown keep you away from wandering into the wild.
So some key things to consider in any event are:
- The car must be reliable and in good mechanical condition, services up to date.
- Choice of tyres – not all tyres are equal and I have seen many problems. You want something that can withstand harsh road conditions and can run at relatively low pressures for long periods of time.
- Suspension – springs and shock absorbers, these will take a hammering at times, make sure it is up to the challenge. The car’s back should not be hanging too much, better still not at all.
- Make sure you have adequate fuel range for the route you want to do. The more remote the less fuel will be available.
- Make sure you make provision to carry enough water at all times. The rule-of-thumb is 20L per person per day.